You need not be a slot-hypnotized slug when you come to Vegas. The city and surrounding areas offer plenty of opportunities for active sports. In addition to many highly rated golf courses, just about every hotel has a large swimming pool and health club, and tennis courts abound. All types of watersports are offered at Lake Mead National Recreation Area; there's rafting on the Colorado, horseback riding at Mount Charleston and Bonnie Springs, great hiking in the canyons, and much, much more. Do plan to get out of those smoke-filled casinos and into the fresh air once in a while. It's good for your health and your finances.

Note: When choosing a hotel, check out its recreational facilities.

Bowling

The Castaways Hotel & Casino, 2800 E. Fremont St. (tel. 702/385-9123), is famous for housing the largest bowling center in North America (106 lanes) and for being the oldest stop on the Professional Bowlers Tour. A recent renovation has made its premises bright and spiffy. Open 24 hours.

Gold Coast Hotel, 4000 W. Flamingo Rd. (at Valley View; tel. 702/367-7111), has a 72-lane bowling center open 24 hours a day.

The Orleans, 4500 W. Tropicana Ave. (tel. 702/365-7111), has 70 lanes, a pro shop, lockers, meeting rooms, and more. Open 24 hours.

Out on the east side of town, you'll find 56 lanes at Sam's Town, 5111 Boulder Hwy. (tel. 702/456-7777), plus a snack shop, cocktail lounge, video arcade, day-care center, pro shop, and more. Open 24 hours.

Suncoast, 9090 Alta Dr., in Summerlin (tel. 702/636-7111), offers one of the newer facilities in town with 64 lanes divided by a unique center aisle. The high-tech center with touch-screen scoring has become a regular stop on the Pro Bowlers tours. Open 24 hours.

Bungee Jumping

If you want to take a real gamble, this is the place to do it -- the odds are stacked in your favor, but the thrill is nearly immeasurable. A. J. Hackett Bungy, 810 Circus Circus Dr., between Las Vegas Boulevard South and Industrial Road (tel. 702/385-4321), is a worldwide chain; they've done more than one million jumps and they haven't lost anyone yet. The instructors are enthusiastic and do much to make you feel comfortable. Expect about an hour wait (there is a bar with a TV and pool table to keep you occupied), but given how meticulous and careful they are with each jumper, you'll be glad they aren't rushing people through.

An elevator in the shape of a rocket takes you to the top of a 175-foot tower, the base for an exhilarating plunge toward a large swimming pool below. During the ride up, you will receive your instructions (which basically amount to "stick your toes over the edge, arms out in front, and dive"). Our guinea pig needed a gentle shove. The whole jump lasts perhaps 3 minutes, but you will have enough adrenaline pumping through your veins to keep you up all night. (And then go gamble!) Dive at night, and you sail right into the lights of Vegas. The price is $54 for your first jump, including a membership and T-shirt ($15 additional for a videotape of your jump), $25 for each subsequent jump. Students and military with ID should inquire about discounts. If you're under 18, you must be accompanied by a parent. Call for hours.

Horseback Riding

Cowboy Trail Rides (tel. 702/948-7061; www.cowboytrailrides.com) offers a variety of rides and trails in Red Rock Canyon and on Mount Charleston (at the 12-mile marker), ranging in price from $89 to $139. The high end is for a Red Rock Canyon sunset trail ride; it's about 2 hours, with the canyon providing a glorious backdrop for the sunset. Riders then return to camp for a barbecue dinner (including a 16-oz. T-bone steak), joined by the cowboys for singalongs and marshmallow roasting. They also offer hourly rates of $25 and buses from the Excalibur hotel. Riding stables at Bonnie Springs Ranch (tel. 702/875-4191; www.bonniesprings.com) also offer guided trail rides daily. Rates start at $25 per person for a 1-hour ride and go up to $135 for dinner rides.

Desert Hiking Advice

Except in summer, when temperatures can reach 120°F (49°C) in the shade, the Las Vegas area is great for hiking. The best hiking season is November to March. Great locales include the incredibly scenic Red Rock Canyon and Valley of Fire State Park.

Hiking in the desert is exceptionally rewarding, but it can be dangerous. Here are some safety tips:

1. Don't hike alone.

2. Carry plenty of water and drink it often. Don't assume spring waters are safe to drink. A gallon of water per person per day is recommended for hikers.

3. Be alert for signs of heat exhaustion (headache; nausea; dizziness; fatigue; and cool, damp, pale, or red skin).

4. Gauge your fitness accurately. Desert hiking may involve rough or steep terrain. Don't take on more than you can handle.

5. Check weather forecasts before starting out. Thunderstorms can turn into raging flash floods, which are extremely hazardous to hikers.

6. Dress properly. Wear sturdy walking shoes for rock scrambling, long pants (to protect yourself from rocks and cacti), a hat, sunscreen, and sunglasses.

7. Carry a small first-aid kit.

8. Be careful when climbing on sandstone, which can be surprisingly soft and crumbly.

9. Don't feed or play with animals, such as the wild burros in Red Rock Canyon. (It's actually illegal to approach them.)

10. Be alert for snakes and insects. Though they're rarely encountered, you'll want to look into a crevice before putting your hand into it.

11. Visit park or other information offices before you start out and acquaint yourself with rules and regulations and any possible hazards. It's also a good idea to tell the staff where you're going, when you'll return, how many are in your party, and so on. Some park offices offer hiker-registration programs.

12. Follow the hiker's rule of thumb: Take only photographs and leave only footprints.

Rock Climbing

Red Rock Canyon, just 19 miles west of Las Vegas, is one of the world's most popular rock-climbing areas. In addition to awe-inspiring natural beauty, it offers everything from boulders to big walls. If you'd like to join the bighorn sheep, Red Rock has more than 1,000 routes to inaugurate beginners and challenge accomplished climbers. Experienced climbers can contact the visitor center (tel. 702/363-1921) for information.

If you're interested in learning or improving your skills, an excellent rock-climbing school and guide service called Sky's the Limit (tel. 800/733-7597 or 702/363-4533; www.skysthelimit.com) offers programs for beginning, intermediate, and advanced climbers. No experience is needed. The school is accredited by the American Mountain Guides Association.

Tennis

Tennis buffs should choose one of the many hotels in town that have tennis courts.

Bally's (tel. 702/967-3380) has eight night-lit hard courts. Fees per hour range from $10 to $15 for guests, $15 to $20 for nonguests. Facilities include a pro shop. Hours vary seasonally. Reservations are advised.

The Flamingo Las Vegas (tel. 702/733-3444) has four outdoor hard courts (all lit for night play) and a pro shop. It's open to the public daily from 7am to 7pm. Rates are $20 per hour for nonguests, $12 for guests. Lessons are available. Reservations are required.

Monte Carlo (tel. 702/730-7777) has three night-lit courts available to the public for $15 per hour.

In addition to hotels, the University of Nevada, Las Vegas (UNLV), Harmon Avenue just east of Swenson Street (tel. 702/895-0844), has a dozen courts (all lit for night play) that are open weekdays from 6am to 9:45pm, weekends 8am to 9pm. Rates are $5 per person per day. You should call before going to find out if a court is available.